The much anticipated debut collection of Raf Simons for Christian Dior finally took place yesterday with the presentation of his first haute couture collection for the label. The Dior show is always one of my highlights of Couture Week. Previously, John Galliano's ability to transport me into a world where unashamedly aristocratic decadence and dramatic elegance reigned supreme was like no other and symbolised, to me, what the haute couture world is all about. However, in recent years, Galliano's Dior woman (namely Karlie Kloss) with her blue painted and heavily lined eyes, combined with her frothy, full mid-length skirt and cinched waist, were almost becoming a tradition on the Dior Couture runway, such was their increasing predictability. For this reason, Raf Simons' more subtle, but nonetheless exquisitely refined and elegant designs shown yesterday, could not have been a more welcome refreshment to both the brand and to the haute couture scene in general.
If you are a fan of Dior, you will have known instantaneously, that while this collection may have lacked the exuberant drama that was intrinsically part of Galliano's magic, these designs undoubtedly retained the stamp of the Dior woman. While Simons made continual reference to classic Dior trademarks, he modified them with the minimalist touch that he is famed for - tweed from a look in 1961 was reworked in a grey Prince of Wales checked wool according to Dior's Twitter; a 'Dior red' jacket resplendent with waist-accentuating basque on the hips was just one of many references to the Bar jacket of the New Look in 1947. However, rather than being steeped in nostalgia for that era, the designs managed to evoke the essence of the Dior House, whilst modernising them sufficiently enough for the Dior women of today.
Fall 2012 fashion saw a revival of the nineties penchant for pairing your skirt with your trousers (one fashion fad that I had hoped would not be recycled). However, bringing the trend to the couture runway and extending its concept by creating a part-ballgown, part-trouser suit combination has cemented this look as the ultimate in modern-day chic and sophisticated red carpet dressing. A pastel striped dress embroidered with feathers no less, was simply show-stopping, but it was the heavily embroidered, two-tone evening gowns that stole the show for me.
As Donatella Versace said after the presentation, "I found it difficult to imagine what Raf would do at Dior, but from the very first look today it made total sense".
What do you think of Raf Simons debut at Dior? Do you love the new direction he's taking the brand, or do you miss Galliano?
